Anatomy of an Opening

A Behind-the-Scenes Look at a New Business’ First Hour

by Jon Regardie

Published: Friday, November 20, 2009 4:31 PM PST

DOWNTOWN LOS ANGELES – New restaurants continue to be a hot trend in Downtown Los Angeles. Several dozen have opened in the past couple years, and more are on the way.

But what challenges arise before everyone smiles for the customers? What goes on behind the scenes as people enter, expecting to be fed a perfect meal in a timely manner?

Mario Del Pero, who with his wife Ellen Chen opened upscale sandwich establishment Mendocino Farms on Bunker Hill in 2006, debuted the second Mendocino last week at the Citigroup Center at 444 S. Flower St. He let Los Angeles Downtown News behind the scenes on opening day. Here is the first hour, plus 29 minutes of prep beforehand, in the life of a new Downtown business.

10:31 a.m.: The restaurant at Fifth and Flower streets glistens in the morning sunlight. A robin’s egg blue sign above an open door beckons customers, though service won’t begin for another 29 minutes. About 10 small tables dot the courtyard in front of the restaurant, while the interior features an attractive assemblage of warm woods, gray nouveau industrial stools and a dropped, pressed-tin ceiling.

10:34: There’s a problem. “I currently don’t have bread,” Del Pero mutters incredulously. The delivery man appears to be lost.

10:37: The staff bustles about. Most wear brown T-shirts that on the back bear the restaurant’s name and the slogan “Eat Local. Think Global.” Behind the counter, chef Judy Han and her team stir pots bubbling with meatballs and mix up pulled pork, among other goods.

10:38: The bread man has been located, but appears to be across the street in the Paul Hastings buildings. Del Pero darts out of the restaurant.

10:42: Two men in suits walk into Mendocino Farms. “You guys open yet?” asks one. A hostess kindly asks them to return shortly. The situation is repeated with three women two minutes later. It keeps recurring as the opening approaches.

10:44: The bread arrives! The delivery man rolls in a few huge pallets of artisan bread with Del Pero trailing close behind. The bread is moved into the open kitchen, where Han and others begin slicing. Del Pero has said they are prepared to serve 700 sandwiches in the first four-hour shift.

10:50: Signs are being finished and placed throughout the restaurant. One, with the price of soups and salads, is affixed to a glass case.

10:51: A manager calls the staff together for a pre-shift meeting. She hastily has them sample some of the salads and small dishes. She describes the orecchiette, the ingredients of the potato salad, and the orzo. When it draws some quizzical looks she explains, “It’s a rice-shaped pasta.”

10:57: About 15 people are lined up outside the door.

10:58: Asked how he feels about the imminent opening, Del Pero responds, “I feel good.” Actually, he looks flustered.

10:59: Literal last-minute instructions are given. Del Pero tells the hostesses to take one order at a time and move at a steady pace so that the kitchen is not overwhelmed.

11:00: No bells, no whistles, no celebration as the first order is taken. Estela Romero, a security guard in a nearby building, asks for the BBQ Chicken sandwich. “I want to taste how it is,” she says when asked why she is first in line. “And I have a coupon.”

11:02: The third customer through the door orders 20 sandwiches. This is just about the worst thing that can happen to a new restaurant trying to maintain a smooth pace.

11:05 a.m.: Romero’s BBQ Chicken is ready and a smiling, pierced staffer hands it over in a brown paper bag stamped with the Mendocino logo. Meanwhile, word appears to have spread: About 30 people are waiting in the line.

11:10: The staff behind the assembly line-like counter is trying to catch up to the 20-sandwich order while additional orders come in. People want Steak BLTs, the Chicken Prosciutto and more. Bread is sliced, meats applied, toppings added and panini grills pressed down. Del Pero looks frazzled.

11:13: Less than 15 minutes after opening, 40 people are waiting in line. With a smile the size of Mendocino County, Del Pero tells people toward the back that things have been slowed by the 20-sandwich order and the wait could be 15-20 minutes. Everyone appreciates the information; some walk away, others prefer to wait.

11:18: A large crowd is clustering around the cash register. The back up of the big order is apparent.

11:24: The 20-sandwich order is complete, though the crush around the register is even larger. “We might not catch up for an hour,” Del Pero says.

11:26: A total of 53 people are either gathered around the register or in line. Despite the mass, orders are starting to flow. One customer walks out the front door, sandwich bag in hand, followed by another and another.

11:32: The cluster at the register is shrinking as the assembly line finds its rhythm. Some are slicing, others spreading. The panini grills spring up and down. Del Pero says a large number of people are ordering panini, which slows down the process.

11:36: About a half hour after opening, 26 people are inside Mendocino Farms and 52 wait outside. Del Pero continues to work the line, explaining the wait. When some leave, he remarks, “I’m so sorry. Please come back and be regulars.” He gets smiles in return.

11:42: Suddenly things seem calmer. “We caught up,” Del Pero says, and indeed, only six people are in front of the register waiting for their food. Behind the counter, chef Han and her staff work intently, though no one appears out of sorts.

11:47: The line swells and shrinks. With the traditional noon lunch hour approaching, it seems clear Del Pero has picked a location with customers eager for new food options.

11:54: Fifty-six people stand in the line in front of the restaurant.

12:00 p.m.: Del Pero’s smile is still huge. “We’ve already done 200 sandwiches,” he says. Meanwhile, the line at the new Mendocino Farms stretches on.